A journey to Terra Incognita II

The Journey continues

You can read Part 1 of this trip journal at this link.

You can view the video series where I prepared for this walk at this link.

Day 6 - To Dome Hill and beyond

After a windy night with occasional rain showers, we woke up to clear skies—exactly what we needed for today's adventure. Our goal was to climb the peak of Dome Hill, and possibly tackle Eldon Bluff afterward, though not everyone was sure about that part. Our time on the trail could vary anywhere from 8 to 12 hours.

We allowed ourselves a slight sleep-in, but by 7 a.m., we were all up, preparing breakfast in the cool morning air. Despite the sunshine, a faint breeze brought a distinct chill. After a relaxed breakfast of freeze-dried berries and oats, we packed up and set off by 8 a.m., fully dressed in outer shells and thermals. The sun was shining, but the wind chill and wet foliage required this gear.

We crossed a short stretch of button grass before entering the scrub and descending toward Lake Ewart at the base of Eldon Bluff. We hoped to find a rumoured pad, but instead, we navigated through thick scrub and cutting grass, reaching a valley 45 minutes after leaving camp.

Although we couldn't see the lake, we knew its direction and advanced through button grass in its general direction. Staying within sight of each other, we spread out, each seeking the easiest path to the water. With the sun now fully shining, I paused occasionally to capture photos of the stunning vista of Eldon Bluff unfolding before us.

Lake Ewart

An hour after leaving camp, we reached the edge of Lake Ewart. Visiting this lake had always been a dream of mine, so I took a moment to rest and photograph the breathtaking view of the lake and the bluff above. Breathing deeply, I savoured the moment, knowing I might never return, and absorbed every detail.

After enjoying the tranquility of the lake, we proceeded along its southern edge, navigating a series of deep creeks. Each crossing demanded careful attention, as the water often spread into hidden deep pools with deceptively soft edges.

The Jump

At one particularly wide creek, we paused to find a suitable crossing point. Crawf, however, confidently declared he had found a spot that could be easily jumped. While the rest of us were content to walk a bit further, we stopped to watch Crawf prepare for his leap. Cameras ready, we observed as this determined athlete took his stance and sprinted towards the creek. His start was promising, and he might have succeeded, if not for the treacherous soft edge that thwarted his launch. As Crawf reached takeoff speed, his final step landed on a patch of grass that gave way beneath him, much like a diver's springboard. With his weight causing it to sink, Crawf's momentum carried him forward, and in a scene reminiscent of a hurdler stumbling at the finish line, he tumbled into the creek, with only his upper body reaching the other side. While we struggled to contain our laughter, Crawf emerged from the water, seemingly pleased to have made it across. Once we regained our composure, we walked a few meters upstream to a narrower section and crossed the creek without getting our feet wet.

The Lake continues

Instead of a few meters, we found ourselves needing to walk a few minutes upstream to find a suitable crossing point. After crossing, we navigated through the tea tree and button grass to catch up with Crawf, who had pressed on ahead. As we continued along the lake's southern edge, we encountered several similar creek crossings on our way to the western side. At one crossing, the narrow strip of water appeared deceptively deep. Everyone made it across, but as the last to jump, I misjudged the leap and ended up in the same predicament Crawf had faced earlier. The tables had turned, and the joke was on me! I pulled myself out of the water, brushed off the mud, and carried on, joining in the laughter. Fortunately, my gaiters and overpants kept most of the water out of my boots.

Lake side

This process of creek crossings only continued for another 15 minutes before we arrived at a more open area on the western edge of Lake Ewart. We now made our way about half up the western side checking out a small campsite in some trees at the lakes edge before turning to the north west and aiming for our next goal, a low scrubby ridge. We had been walking for 1 hr 40mins and were happy with our progress.

Scrubby climb

We confidently navigated the short plain and encountered another dense wall of scrub. The sound of a creek guided us to a suitable entry point. Crossing the creek without any issues, we began a steep ascent through the thick vegetation. Despite our pre-trip planning, the climb proved more challenging than anticipated. But, the warming sun and clear blue sky were a welcome change from the previous day's harsh conditions. After about 50 minutes of climbing, we reached a clearer area of waist-high scrub, where the terrain levelled out. From there, we enjoyed a stunning view of Eldon Bluff to the south and the ridge line ahead. We pressed on for another 10 minutes before finding a scrubby spot to take a break and prepare for our next side trip. We had been on the move for just under three hours having covered 5.30km (3.3m).

On the way to Dome Hill

After a brief 10-minute break, we set our sights northward, ready to tackle our next target: Dome Hill. This seemingly modest mound at the end of a long ridge had caught my eye from nearby Mt Nereus on a previous adventure, and today, I was eager to tackle this remote and seldom-visited peak.

With our daypacks filled with lunch and snacks, we embarked on our journey. A quick stop at a small creek for a water refill, and we were making excellent time along the mostly open ridge top, covering the 4.3 km (2.7 miles) stretch leading to Dome Hill.

The path was relatively clear, with only a few scrubby patches to navigate. The panoramic views were magnificent, causing us to pause frequently and soak in the scenery. To the east, we enjoyed a sweeping 180-degree vista of the peaks we had previously climbed over the years, including those of Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair, as well as others from recent days. Even some distant mountains from the southern part of the state were visible, making for absolutely divine conditions. Yet, we pressed on. As the ridge began to incline towards the peak, we picked up speed on the more open sections. After a final, steeper ascent, we reached the flat, sparse summit 1 hour and 40 minutes after setting out. It had been 5 hours since we left camp, and the sense of accomplishment was palpable amongst the group.

Lunch with a view

We took a well-deserved break to relax and enjoy an extended lunch with stunning views surrounding us. Each of us found a comfortable spot to settle in, creating our own little zones of relaxation. I even took the opportunity to remove my boots and socks, letting my feet breathe in the fresh air. It felt like pure luxury as I lay back in the sun, savouring the moment.

As we enjoyed our meal, we contemplated the rest of the day's journey. Our initial plan, as per our itinerary, was to set up camp near where we had left our packs and initial concerns about water availability had us considering moving to the next day's campsite early. However, the recent rain seemed to alleviate those worries. Still, a couple of us thought reaching the next campsite could grant us a full rest day tomorrow. As we wrapped up our lunch and began packing, we decided to assess our timing and feel once we returned to the packs.

Back to the packs

We swiftly retraced our steps along the now familiar ridge, completing the return journey in just 1 hour and 20 minutes. Our pace was impressive, and we were pleased with our progress. As we made our way back, we again discussed potential campsite option for this evening with no firm decision yet made. Once we reached our gear, someone suggested we vote on our next move:

Option 1 was to set up camp nearby sooner rather than later, while Option 2 involved pushing on past Eldon Bluff to a campsite further ahead, requiring a few more hours of walking. Crawf devised a simple voting system where each of us would drop a pebble into one of two bags, with the majority vote determining our course. In the event of a tie, we would go with Option 1. Having all known one another for decades, this was more of a playful exercise than a serious decision-making process. I had a strong sense that the outcome was already a foregone conclusion….

The Vote

We packed up our gear, and each of us confidently placed our ballot in one of the two bags. Crawf then stepped forward to tally the votes. After a moment of suspense, he revealed that we would be staying nearby for the night. The vote was evenly split, with two votes each, but we were all pleased with the outcome. We eagerly anticipated setting up camp and enjoying the afternoon's clear skies with some well-deserved rest and relaxation.

Finding camp

Determined to find a better campsite, we set our sights on climbing further up the ridge towards the bluff. With our full packs in tow, we made our way to a tree line and began a steady ascent along the ridge extending from the bluff. Before long, we reached some open slabs of sand and rock, which were decent but not quite what we were looking for. We pressed on, passing more slabs and open areas, and about 30 minutes after leaving our rest stop, we reached the top of the ridge. The terrain here was flat, open, and perfectly suited to our needs in the fine conditions. We dropped our packs and, under the afternoon sun, began setting up our tents and gear.

Bliss… or is it?

Beaui and Woolza took a moment to rest and soak in the view, which offered a rewarding panorama of our entire route from today and the previous days. However, within minutes, we realised something was amiss. The entire hill was a massive ant nest, with tiny black ants quickly becoming a nuisance, even biting our ankles. "This won't do," I remarked to Crawf. We exchanged a knowing glance and set off to find a better site.

While Beaui and Woolza searched in one direction, Crawf and I headed the other way, seeking an ant-free area. It was more challenging than anticipated, but after about half an hour, we discovered a spot a few hundred meters away with similar views, a small water source, and fewer ants. This would suffice.

Camp, finally

With our new site secured, we returned for our packs and moved to the final campsite. Within another half an hour, we were all set up, each of us settling into our post-walk routines. After collecting water and arranging our chairs, we relaxed and enjoyed an evening of stunning views, delicious food, and a breathtaking sunset. It had been an incredible day. Eldon Bluff loomed above, inviting me, and I felt a thrill knowing that tomorrow I would finally climb the peak that had captivated my imagination for so long.

DAY 7 - Terra Incognita

The night was the calmest of the trip, yet sleep eluded me. Despite the tranquility, our campsite was both a blessing and a curse. We couldn't find a perfectly flat spot, so we had settled for a bumpy patch, leaving me twisted and uncomfortable all night. No matter. We rose before dawn, ready for a big day.

The cool morning air had us layering up as we prepared breakfast. With coffees in hand, we settled into our chairs to watch the sunrise. For the next half hour, we absorbed the beauty—the emerging peaks, the light, and the sheer serenity. It was one of the most delightful mornings I can remember, and we cherished every second.

After stretching and tidying up, we began packing, unhurried and relaxed. By 8:20 a.m., we set off toward the base of Eldon Bluff's cliffs. I knew that there on those very cliffs lay the rock climbing route, Terra Incognita, the story of which had first inspired me to one day visit here. While we wouldn't climb the cliffs today, we opted for a slightly easier path. As we navigated through the open forest, we reached the cliff base in 20 minutes and began our westward journey along its edge.

A gradual ascent

For the next hour, we navigated the undulating terrain of the base of the mountain, eventually rounding it to begin a gradual ascent to a saddle at the rear. Knowing we would return to this spot, we left our packs behind, switched to daypacks, and embarked on a steeper climb over car and bus-sized boulders toward the main peak.

Our experience in such terrain ensured swift progress, and within 20 minutes, we reached the edge of the expansive summit plateau. Although the actual summit was still a fair distance away, we took our time, tracing a path around the cliffs toward the plateau's end.

Eldon Bluff

It was still early, meaning that we could proceed without haste, capturing photos and exploring this unique place we might never visit again. A thin mist lingered in the valleys below, again offering us breathtaking 360-degree views. Just under 2.5 hrs after leaving camp, we reached the main summit cairn, situated next to a small mountain-top tarn. We paused here, examining an alternative access route—a steep and likely perilous gully rising from near Lake Ewart. At one point we had discussed climbing the peak this way - I was glad we did not.

We took a moment to absorb the surroundings and briefly enjoyed a rare moment of phone reception to connect with loved ones. After about 40 mins, though it felt too short, we reluctantly began our return to the packs. This time, we crossed the main plateau, reaching our starting point in approximately 35 mins.

Onwards to camp

We were confident that our destination was close. In just over half an hour, we descended into a saddle and, after a further 25-minute climb, reached the top of a small plateau. This was the area we had initially planned for our campsite, so we began our search for the perfect spot. The small valley we had first arrived in didn’t offer much, so we ventured further.

Climbing a nearby rocky outcrop, we surveyed the landscape and spotted several promising valleys, depressions, and shelves scattered across the plateau. It didn’t take long to reach one of these sites, and upon arrival, we knew it was perfect. A grassy area with a stunning view of tomorrow’s journey, the much-anticipated 'spine of the range.'

Having walked just 4 hrs 20 mins today, we took our time setting up camp, finding water, and unwinding. We spent a couple of hours relaxing, enjoying lunch, and making hot drinks, rejuvenating ourselves for the next leg of today’s adventure—Eldon Crag.

Eldon Crag

After our rejuvenation session, we decided it was time to move before the warm afternoon air lulled us into complacency. With a touch of reluctance, we laced up our boots, strapped on our gaiters, and slung our daypacks over our shoulders, setting our sights on Eldon Crag, just 2km to the north.

We retraced our earlier steps before veering north, making a direct path to the peak. The terrain, a mix of open grass, rock, and scrub, posed little challenge under the clear blue skies, and we reached the summit in a swift 45 minutes—much faster than anticipated.

Once there, we lingered, soaking in the expansive views. From this vantage point, Dome Hill, which we had summited just over a day ago, stood prominently. After savouring the scenery, we began our descent at our own pace, returning to camp in nearly the same time as our outbound journey.

With ample daylight remaining, we spent the afternoon reading, relaxing, and discussing tomorrow’s ambitious route across the range to Eldon Peak, visible from our campsite. The upcoming section was notorious for its grueling length and lack of rest or water, leaving us both nervous and excited. Would the relentless heat make it a formidable challenge or a manageable trek? In 24 hours - all would be revealed.

Day 8 - The spine of the range

Day 8 marked the pinnacle of our journey, the day we had meticulously planned and anticipated. This section of our route had been the focus of countless hours of preparation. Any reports that we could find consistently described it as long and relentless. If rain came, it was almost a guaranteed rest day. Tackling it in the reverse direction of most travellers added an extra layer of challenge. Yet, with nearly a century of combined experience navigating similar terrains, we were confident in our strategy.

Rising well before dawn, we reluctantly left the warmth of our tents. Crawf's headlamp flickered on, signaling it was time to move. We quickly packed, fuelled up with breakfast and coffee, and set off just as the sun began to rise, hitting the trail by 7 a.m. Our first task was to navigate a series of three rocky knolls before descending to a scrubby saddle leading to the main ridge line, which we had dubbed 'the spine of the range.'

Departure

As we left camp, we crossed a small saddle and began skirting the first rocky knoll. This peak was dominated by large boulders, transitioning to thicker scrub on its lower slopes. We carefully manoeuvred around its base, with some opting for a scrubbier path below while I chose to stay higher, preferring the challenge of boulder hopping. Progress was steady as we reached the next short saddle, leading us to the subsequent knoll. Here, we climbed slightly to avoid the dense scrub, continuing our sidling ascent over the boulders.

After navigating this second mound of boulders, we spotted a broader saddle ahead, leading to the final, larger knoll. We followed a direct line down the boulders and reached the saddle, which offered a couple of promising campsites which we kept in mind should we ever return. Without pausing, we pressed on, ascending through initial scrub and rock to the summit of the final peak. We reached the top of this third knoll an hour after leaving camp.

The Knoll

The sky was clear, promising another pristine day. The summit was mostly boulders with occasional small patches of grass or scrub. From this vantage point, we felt elevated, with a clear view of the range's spine and the scrubby saddle below. After a quick snack and a strategic discussion, we chose our route and began a diagonal descent toward the saddle. As we descended, initially through thick scrub, the terrain ahead eventually became a little clearer. We identified the bottom of the saddle, with some open areas and a couple of small rocky slabs about two-thirds of the way down—our first target.

Scrubbysaddle.com

Navigating through thick vegetation, we stayed within communication range of each other. We joked about creating a website called scrubbysaddle.com, amused by the idea. Our progress was swift, and we reached the rocky slabs in reasonable time. Focused, we set our sights on the saddle, now much closer.

Entering the scrub again, I mused about the website's user interface and features - ‘Scrubbysaddle - for all your scrub needs’. A few minutes later, we encountered a thicker scrubby band, with the more open base of the saddle just 100 meters away. Beaui and Woolza opted for a circular path, while Crawf and I chose a direct line. The thick scrub soon gave way to easier walking, and after crossing a small creek with minimal water, Crawf and I arrived at the saddle. We had now been travelling for 1hr 55mins. We had initially allowed around 3 hours to this point so we were again happy with the progress.

We rested briefly, waiting for the others to complete their scenic route. From here, the day would mostly involve climbing, but we were thrilled with our progress. We had exceeded our timing estimates, which was fantastic. With the others now joining us, we began our ascent to the spine, eyeing the first rocky cliffs in the distance. The climb through scrub and forest lay ahead, and I set my sights on a distant cliff, ready to tackle the challenge.

The Spine begins

With determination, I led the charge up a spur through the forest and low-lying scrub. Occasionally, a faint pad appeared, but I focused on the path of least resistance. In just 20 minutes, we reached the base of the short cliffs we had spotted earlier. Switching to climbing mode, we navigated a series of ledges to summit the first of many knolls—about nine in total—that lay ahead. It took us half an hour from the saddle, and we were thrilled to have made such progress so early.

Without delay, we pressed on, following the ridge known as 'the spine.' The walk was pleasant, and between the initial knolls, we stayed atop the ridge, where the low scrub posed no challenge. We paused briefly in a grassy area for snacks and drinks.

As we continued, the terrain grew rockier, and by the fourth or fifth knoll, we were fully engaged in boulder hopping around or over each peak, with some scrub in between adding to the adventure. Initially, we sidled around each high point, but now we stayed closer to the summits. It was tough going, and realising we were probably just over halfway across the spine, we decided to break for lunch 5 hours and 15 minutes into our journey.

Lunch on the range

Under the shelter of a large overhang, we found a couple of flat boulders and prepared our meals, discussing the challenges that lay ahead. From our vantage point, we could see that the rest of the day would involve a strenuous uphill climb over a chaotic jumble of bus-sized boulders. It looked daunting. We also realised that water was becoming a concern. Since leaving the scrubby saddle, we hadn't encountered any water sources, and with the heat of the day upon us, careful rationing was essential as we didn't expect to find more until we reached camp. Time was of the essence, so after a brief half-hour rest, we resumed our trek through the boulder fields.

A maze of boulders

Navigating this maze of massive rocks required frequent backtracking when faced with sheer drop-offs. Gone were the open ridge tops and scrub; it was just us and the rocks now. Despite the challenges, we made good progress and, about half an hour after lunch, reached a particularly difficult section we had meticulously planned for in the lead up to the trip having analysed satellite imagery and maps.

The choice was to go over or around a massive peak of boulders. Initially, we intended to go over, but upon reaching a choke point, the team decided to descend for a better route. A rock scrambler at heart, I chose to continue over the top, and soon found myself quite a distance above them. We progressed at an equal pace until I encountered a formidable drop-off. Reluctant to tackle it, I descended, dropping about 60 meters to a rocky valley where the others were navigating below.

Back on the main ridge

From there, we climbed over the boulders to rejoin the main ridge. After nearly seven hours of trekking, we finally glimpsed the small alpine plateau below Eldon Peak, our destination for the night. It seemed tantalizingly close, but one final rocky ridge stood in our way. Having conquered the most challenging section, we moved swiftly up the boulders and, after 7.5 hours of walking, reached a grassy plateau. We had done it! We paused to admire our accomplishment, feeling both happy and proud of completing one of our toughest days of hiking. After congratulating each other, we continued for another 15 minutes until we found a suitable campsite.

Campsite

Nearby tarns provided water, and the views were breathtaking. It was hard to believe we had made it this far in one day. In the distance to the east we could see the campsite we had left this morning. With the early arrival, we set up camp and took time to relax.

Eldon Peak beckons

By 3 p.m., rejuvenated, we decided to climb Eldon Peak, which loomed above us. With a small daypack, we embarked on the steep climb through pineapple grass and rock. In just 10 minutes and 80 meters of climbing, we reached the boulder-strewn summit of a peak I had long dreamed of. The views were magnificent, with a gentle breeze adding to the divine atmosphere. We spent about 40 minutes at the summit, savouring the moment. We could see our destination for tomorrow—a 1200-meter descent where the South Eldon and King Rivers flowed into Lake Burbury.

Evening rest

As the air cooled, it was time to leave. The others began their descent as I lingered a bit longer, finally making my way back to camp. As I arrived, clouds rolled in from the valley, enveloping us and the peak above. The timing was perfect. After more relaxation, we prepared dinner, reflecting on our journey. While we agreed we were unlikely to return, it had been a monumental effort. And we still had one day to go.

Day 9 - Return to civilisation

We had thoroughly enjoyed every moment of our journey, yet the anticipation of returning home was undeniable. Rising before dawn, we peeked out of the tent to find another stunning day, with clouds nestled in the valleys around us. The air was crisp, typical of these Tasmanian heights. Unsure of how long the day’s trek would take, we estimated it could be up to 6 or 7 hours. Our longtime friend and fellow adventurer, Gordo, was set to meet us by the lake with his boat for a 1pm rendezvous. He would then ferry us on a 20-minute ride back to civilisation.

Determined not to keep Gordo waiting, we efficiently prepared and set off by 7:20am. Our first task was to return to the summit of Eldon Peak before beginning our descent. With our packs on, we retraced the climb from the previous night. I paused to take in the view of our campsite and the range we had traversed, feeling a lump in my throat. This place would be missed.

Departure

As we left, the clouds once again enveloped the plateau, but we ascended to clearer skies. We paused briefly at the peak before heading south to locate a rocky gully for our descent. The vastness of the descent was apparent, yet I was confident it wouldn't take long. We carefully navigated the boulder fields, ensuring solid footing as we warmed up. The rocks slowed us slightly, but within an hour, we transitioned to knee- to waist-high scrub along a spur. Our pace quickened as the terrain became greener and denser.

Scrubby descent

After about two hours, we reached a thicker forest with cutting grass. The path we followed became unclear with numerous false leads, prompting us to pause and reassess. Eventually, we found the correct trail. The forest was dense, so we focused on staying on the trail to avoid the thicker scrub. Occasionally, we lost the path but quickly relocated it. The terrain was steep, and at one point, we found ourselves without a trail, navigating through challenging scrub. Eventually, we emerged into more open forest, and three hours after leaving camp, we reached a flat section marking the base of the climb.

Trail tails

We spotted trail marking tape and decided to follow it, while also monitoring our pre-programmed routes on our watches. The trail was difficult to follow, but with our route in hand, we made good progress, eventually reaching the pebbly banks of the South Eldon River after four hours of walking. Emerging from the forest onto the sunlit riverbanks was a surreal experience. The day's heat had arrived, and with plenty of time before Gordo's arrival, we leisurely strolled along the dry riverbed, enjoying the sound of flowing water under clear skies.

River walk

We reached the junction of the King and South Eldon rivers, which we had seen the night before, and continued on. We needed to reach a point where Gordo could bring the boat, so we followed the river for another 40 minutes until arriving at its outflows near the lake.

Reflection

On a grassy bank, we dropped our packs, removed our boots, and opened some snacks while we waited. Above us loomed the peak we had just descended. We each took a moment to reflect on the journey we had completed. It was a significant trip, and we had achieved every goal. We felt content and very happy.

Our hero

As Gordo's boat arrived, bringing fresh fruits, biscuits, cheese, and some very welcome cold beverages, we smiled and laughed, pleased to see him. The mission complete, it was time to return home. But before leaving, I turned back to the Eldon Range and silently thanked it for its hospitality.